As a rule -- First measure tightly around the torso, directly underneath the breasts. This is the frame size, or underband. To calculate the band size, add 5 in if the frame size is an odd number, or 4 in if it is even (bras are generally available in band sizes separated by two inches, all labeled by an even number). Next measure loosely around the chest including the fullest part of the breasts, while standing straight with arms to the side. This is the bust size or overbust. The cup size is then the difference between the bust size and the underband size, converted into a letter using the table on the following link:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bra_sizes
One common cup size system amongst European manufacturers, in order of increasing size, is: AAA-AA-A-B-C-D-DD-E-F-FF-G-GG-H-J, although the use of double letters is not consistent between manufacturers (e.g. some may use EE rather than F, DDD rather than E, etc.). The majority of bra bands run true to size (as in, a size 36 band measures, when stretched, 36 inches).